Note: It is now July 16, 2010 (Cook Islands, Black Rock Cafe) and I'm updating this post with photos from Maupiti and Mopelia.
Peter trying to get the internet in Maupiti
View of the main village in Maupiti from the motu across the lagoon
Farewell Maupiti - port marker on the way out
The crashing surf as we are leaving
This is being sent to you via Ham Radio from our picture perfect anchorage in Mopelia. We arrived here after an overnight sail last Sunday, and we could stay here forever. It is our kind of Robinson Crusoe island - with only 12 inhabitants divided amongst four families. There are no facilities of any kind and the families live a basic and self-sustaining lifestyle.
Approaching Mopelia...
Made it through
There are two lovely anchorages here. We spent the first four nights in crystal clear water facing the motu with miles and miles of white sandy beaches fringed with coconut trees for as far as the eye can see. I've never seen a nicer beach anywhere in my travels. We moved this morning to the northern anchorage where we'll stay for the next two nights. This gives us easier access to go snorkel the wreck of the Sea Adler. We attempted it today, but the waves were too high, the swell too strong and the current too dangerous, so we had to turn back in our dinghy. Hopefully we can do it tomorrow afternoon. That was the main draw for coming here, but we are so glad we didn't listen to the guidebooks, that basically said it is a narrow and dangerous pass (which it is) and difficult to navigate both in and out.
Isn't this amazing!!!
The pass was quite intimidating as it is very narrow, with unforgiving coral on both sides all the way through. The books go on to say that most people who have ventured in have said it wasn't worth the stress of getting in and out. We think it is a golden jewel and it is our favourite place that we've come across this season (yes, it even beats out our second favourite place of last week, Maupiti, but only because it is so isolated!
Beautiful shells for us to leave for the next people to enjoy
We do hope we'll get out without any problems. One of the ham radio fellows told us that he went aground on the way out and had to kedge off and dig the coral off his hull. He then returned for 4 days to calm down, lick his wounds and try again!
Endless ocean
We went for a long walk around the motu and then crossed through the coconut jungle for the round trip. Can't even begin to describe how beautiful it is here. Next week, when we get to internet range, I'll post some pictures.
Here's some photos - Di walking on the wild side
We did go visit the key family here. The husband is Kamili and he is a big, welcoming guy who speaks a limited amount of English. We had some interesting conversations with hand signals. His sons were busy getting the roasted-in-the-sun coconuts ready in big burlap bags. Once every four months, a ship comes to the pass and collects their harvest, which is their only source of outside income. We'll be here today to see how the transaction takes place.
Kamili's family home
Another gorgeous rainbow
He also showed us his huge coconut crab. When we went snorkeling yesterday on the reef, he came over and taught Peter how he hunts for Oysters and they ate one fresh from the sea. It is wonderful to see pristine coral, alive and well. We haven't seen beautiful coral like this since last year in the Tuamotos and the Marquessa Islands.
Coconut Crab
The plan is to leave Saturday morning (we could leave today, but Peter adheres to the Sailors creed of not beginning any passages on a Friday). I could happily stay here forever, but we must start heading west and there is still so much to see. We will up-anchor on Saturday morning and head toward the Cook Islands. It will be with some sadness that we take down the French flag as well as the Polynesian flag, in readiness to hoist the Cook Island flag.
Taking down the French Polynesian flag
We expect the crossing to take about three days. I admit to being a little nervous as this will be the longest crossing with only Peter and me. One of the cruisers who just arrived in Akitaki (where we are heading) broke his rib on the crossing. Hopefully we'll be a bit luckier.
Heading out of the pass from Mopelia
The weather has been quite unsettled, with squalls and rain, so we expect we'll be weathering some of that. As requested, I will try to post a message on the blog each morning, beginning Sunday morning for the duration of the crossing. There is no guarantee that we can get reception, so if there is not a posting one day - please do not worry. We should make landfall sometime Tuesday.
A little intimidating...but here we come
Hope everyone is well and happy. Although we do love it here, we miss our friends and family and think of you all often.
smiles from the South Pacific
Until Sunday..have a great weekend.
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