We have spent 10 wonderful days in Aitutaki and will be sorry to leave tomorrow. We have really loved it here and would highly recommend it as a holiday destination. It is very laid back, the locals all get around on scooters; there are no major hotels or stores, etc. The locals all speak English and are very, very friendly. We love the quaintness of it and have enjoyed buzzing around on our scooter and becoming part of the community.
The way kids ride on the back - Oma would have an absolute fit watching it!
Because this island is remote, they only get a freighter in to deliver supplies every few weeks. There are a number of local growers and small stores on the island, so shopping involves going from one to the other for various items. Quite fun. We order bread, buns from the gas station, we order eggs from a local lady, we get lettuce from a store on the backside, etc. If we were at home, we’d go stark raving mad doing this, but here, it is a treat to drop in and say hello and pick up odds and ends. Right now, as I write this Peter is off in search of a bottle of rum and to pick up our bread.
Large Banyan trees
Here in the little harbour of Aitutaki, it is very interesting and quite challenging. First off, getting in the passage is quite tricky. It is shallow, narrow and not well-marked. We shouldn’t actually be inside as we draw more depth than the channel has, except at very high tide – which is what we came in on. Tomorrow will be a challenge leaving as we will have 3 few inches than we had coming in, but it is the highest tide for the next few weeks. We will use up all our water, so that our waterline will gain a couple more inches.
Leaving the harbour to get to the pass itself is also tricky as it can be windy and the boats are all in here pretty close and personal. When Scott and Cindy left it took a couple of us with our dinghies and almost an hour to get the stern and bow anchor up and fending them off from other boats. The sailboat Bubbles (with three young guys) came in the pass and went aground and had to wait for high tide to float off. When they left yesterday they also went aground. They draw about 6 inches less than we do!
In the anchorage another boat Bubus got in to some trouble as the mooring they were on broke! This meant they drifted back on another boat (with Bernard aboard, who has broken ribs from his passage here). Again, lots of drama to help get him settled and re-anchored. We also required assistance when we re-anchored as the current was stronger than the wind and we decided to move deeper in to the harbour. Makes life quite interesting.
Our turn for assistance
There is also the “outside of reef” anchoring, which is for boats (our size and bigger). It is really rough out there and rolly, but the only option for those boats smart enough not challenge the pass! It is a fun anchorage and very sociable…we have met people from South Africa, two Belgium boats, Germany, Australia, the U.S., etc.
View from the top
The island itself has lots to offer – great snorkeling, great lagoon trips, $20 a day scooter rentals, good walking/hiking areas, lots of great little places to eat and drink. We spent a day going to the top of the hills where you get a 360 degree view. The dirt roadways are a joy to explore. Last night we went to an outdoor buffet and show. We left after it was over and as soon as they started coming for audience participation! ! It was another fun event to go to church on Sunday and listen to the singing, although here the men need long pants and women need long sleeves and a hat. Since I didn’t think my baseball cap would fit the bill, I wore a scarf and a sweater. Peter said I looked like a Mormon or something!
Unique Fruit
The sad thing here is that a major cyclone went through in February with winds in excess of 235 kilometres. It destroyed a number of homes and ripped the roof off many, many more. The banana trees were also badly damaged. Many people are living in tents beside their houses. The community spirit is wonderful though and they all work together to rebuild houses – starting with the elderly and sick. The Cook Islanders are resilient and have taken it all in stride.
The costs of goods here are less than in French Polynesia, but still are about 80% more than in Canada due to the shipping costs from New Zealand. It’s still excellent value and we can’t recommend it enough
On this, our final day, we will do our last minute running around, including getting Peter’s hair cut by the local baker.
Sail Repair
We are off tomorrow morning on the early high tide to head to Palmerston Island. This is a very remote island with only 30 inhabitants (about 4 different families that don’t get along). It is a unique situation because when you arrive, they fight over you and one of them gets to “claim you” and then attach your boat to their mooring, This means they are your host family for the entire duration of your stay. You can’t use your own dinghy, but they are at your beck and call to come and get you and escort you on land. They treat you like an honoured guest. You can’t mix with the other families, or other boats that have been claimed by another family. Our friends that are there now, say it is an experience not to be missed. We are taking lots of items and fresh produce to give them, as well as taking goods from Islanders (boxes of fresh bread, etc) to distribute.
Stocking up as we head into more remote areas
The crossing to get there should be about two nights depending on weather. We are not sure how long we will stay there and then we will continue on for another two night passage to Beveridge Reef – which is simply a reef in the middle of the ocean! If the seas are too high we will have to just sail by and continue on to Niue.
Next week, I’ll try to update the blog via ham radio from wherever we are. Have a great weekend. P.S. We just got some distressing news from home. Uncle Don is quickly failing. We are sending our love and best wishes to Aunt Margaret and the kids at this very difficult time.
No comments:
Post a Comment