Cusco & Machu Picchu, South America

Yahoo....Mission Accomplished!!!!!

Overlooking Manchu Picchu at dawn

On Sunday, May 31st, I flew from Huatulco to Lima, where I met up at midnight with Martha (who flew from Ottawa/Toronto) We stayed awake all night catching up and then continued together on our next flight at 5:00 a.m. to Cusco. Our pre-arranged transfer to the airport wasn’t there to greet us, so we simply hopped on another GAP van and made our way to the hotel. As is often the case with travelling, they didn’t have room for us at our reserved inn, so we were moved to another hotel. No big deal, just the beginning of our next adventure.

The views were incredible.

We spent three nights in Cusco at approximately 12,000 feet. We both were taking altitude medication, so we didn’t really feel the effects (keeping in mind that if you fly ove3r 10,000 feet, you are in a pressurized cabin). We crammed as much as we could in these three days, using taxi’s that never cost more than $1.00 to go anywhere. Meals were very inexpensive ($5.00 for two full breakfasts including coffee/juice/omelletes, etc.) We were able to check in at internet cafes to follow the adventures of QuickStar. In addition to all the regular tourist highlights, we also toured the local market and visited the orphanage where they gratefully accepted donations.

Exploring some ruins.

We met up with our GAP group on the evening before we began our 6 day tour including our 4-day trek. There was 16 of us in total – 4 Canadians, 1 Australian, 2 Danish girls and 6 Brits. We all hit it off well and proceeded to have an incredible experience together. The first day prior to the beginning of our hike, was a visit to two ruins to warm us up and to teach us how to climb steps (slowly, carefully and from side to side), since the Inca Trail has thousands and thousands of steps that we must climb up and down to reach the hidden city of Manchu Picchu. We hiked each day, stopped for lunch and then arrived in our camp, which was already set up with our tents and the mess-hall tent, usually by five or earlier. We had 21 porters/cooks that carried everything except our daypacks. Each day usually began with us up by five, or earlier and in bed by nine. Each day before our afternoon tea/snack I led a Yoga session (sure made me appreciate all my Yoga teachers even more than I did before!). Sore muscles, blistered feet and sunburn were all part of the experience! (and yes, Lesley, we paid to do this!!!)

Check out the steps!

Martha and I were very fortunate, as we were two out of only five others in our group of 13 that didn’t get sick somewhere along the trail. For most the change in food and water caused stomach problems and for others the altitude wore them down. The hike was much more challenging than we thought it would be, but we loved every step of the way, although as our guide promised us, we soon became weary of yet another set of endless and uneven stone steps.

Martha taking time out near the top of a pass to salute her friend Terry who was murdered this February. I sent my love out to Diane, my adventourous girlfriend who died from skin cancer a couple of years ago. Both friends are fondly remembered and sadly missed!

We remained amazed that this 42 kilometre trail, with three high passes was built by the Inca’s, one stone at a time. Their workmanship was incredible, as they believed that they reincarnate and return after each death, so they took enormous pride in everything they built for themselves and the generations to follow them expecting it to last forever.

A day at camp...

When the Spanish conquered the Inca’s, they insisted that they destroy the many Inca towns and communities that they had built throughout the mountains. The Inca’s did not do so, but rather they buried many of their settlements. It was fascinating to come across old Inca towns that were partially

hidden. Manchu Pichu was never found by the Spanish. This hidden city was abandoned before it could be discovered. There are many theories as to why the whole community left, with the most common thesis being that they went to help a neighbouring town in their fight against the Spanish.

The clouds cleared to dazzle us with sunlight.

It was in 1911 that the American scholar Brigham, discovered this hidden city with the help of an 8-year-old local boy who took him to the site. At this time, the city was completely covered over with wines and the natural growth that occurs in a rain forest. They continue to this day to excavate the site. When we first laid eyes on it before dawn, from afar at the high pass at the Sun Gate we were incredibly moved (yes, we shed a few tears and I’m not ashamed to admit it!).

We then began the descent into the Village where we waited halfway for the sun to come up. There are only about 30 days in a year, where the clouds are not obscuring the city, and we were very fortunate to be there on a crystal clear day. The clouds moved in and out, but when the sun rose over the mountain, Manchu Pichhu was bathed in sunlight . Another moment for tears in his magical, spiritual place!

After touring the city in the morning, we took a bus ride down the mountain to the town, where we caught a train, then a bus back to Cusco. The treacherous bus ride was the scariest part of the whole trip, but we managed to arrive back at the hotel in one piece. We went out for a farewell group dinner with our new friends with whom we shared this incredible experience. Martha ended the evening doing celebratory cartwheels down the cobble stone street!

Martha and I awoke the next day at 4:00 and flew to Lima and then on to Guayaquil in Ecuador, where we spent one evening (Martha was asleep before 7:00 – so much for our planned evening of watching chick flicks on T.V.). Another early flight the next day to the Galapagos. Our cab driver had a zest for life, so he had the music blaring and we were dancing in the back seat, all before the sun had even come up. He is my new example of how someone can truly love whatever job they do! He even proposed to me enroute, but alas the sea and Peter was calling me!

Cab driver Roberto - loving life!

Our plane was delayed by an hour, but we finally arrived in the Galapagos where we took a bus to the canal, a ferry across and then a final bus to get to the harbour. We were racing Peter and Don to see who would get to the Galapagos first. They officially sailed in to the harbour at 7:30 a.m., but had to fly the quarantine flag, meaning they couldn’t get off the boat. We met with our agent in town and he advised that the boat hadn’t been cleared so we couldn’t go out to it yet. This meant that Martha and I were actually first on land in the Galapagos. (mmmm....so who really won the Great Galapagos race???) A few hours later, after the doctor had checked out Peter and Don and confirmed that they didn’t have the Swine Flu, as well as the Port Captain clearing QuickStar, we were reunited at the bar. We spent the next many hours in the bar/restaurant regaling each other with our tales from the last ten days.