We’ve had a rather exciting week here in Opunahu Bay, Moorea, following in the footsteps where Captain Cook anchored in 1777. We celebrated Peter’s 55th birthday by going for a long walk and ended at the exclusive Hilton Resort. We decided to return to the over-the-water outdoor bar for cocktails and the sunset before having a romantic dinner on the boat.
Once back on QuickStar, our plans quickly changed, as it started to pour and the wind began in earnest. (so a box of frozen lasagne for the birthday dinner) This was just the beginning of what has been an almost weeklong episode of the worst weather we have experienced since leaving Vancouver two years ago. We are not complaining though, and are actually loving it. We are like little kids who have been freed from school on “snow days”. We’ve tucked in, snug as bugs in a rug, and have been doing lots of reading in bed, playing cards, dancing in the galley, listening to great tunes, catching up with people on Facebook and email, laughing over the absolutely ghastly Gilligan Island reruns, and simply enjoying “being” instead of “doing”.
Just before going to sleep on Snow Day Three, the wind intensified yet again, so Peter went up on deck to ensure that everything was indeed secure, and to also add a few more lines to the strapped down inflatable kayaks. Within moments, the wind gusted to over 50 knots and developed into a major storm that was not forecasted. Our anchor started dragging (as did a few others in the anchorage). We were unable to get the anchor up to move locations as we were now too close to the boat behind us, and the reef beside us, and Peter was being cautious about my lack of storm experience to risk moving in zero visibility. For the next two hours, Peter drove the boat, while still at anchor to hold our position. With the wind howling and the rain pelting, we had one of our kayaks ripped off the deck and swept out to sea.
The wind finally abated somewhat, so we decided it was time to reset. I failed miserably at holding the boat into the wind – which means that with me at the helm when a blast struck we were being hit broadside and pushed down on the other boats. So, we switched places and I hauled myself to the bow, to bring up the anchor, while holding on for dear life, in the pelting rain. We did manage to get free and re-set the anchor further out in the bay, with lots of room for manoeuvring. A definite adrenalin-pumping night, but no injuries, other than me sporting an armful of bruises from being bashed around on the bow.
The next morning there was a sailboat that limped in to our anchorage, with a broken sailbag and looking rather beat up. The Captain borrowed our bolsun chair to make some repairs up the mast. On the morning radio net, we heard of many more tales during the storm, including three boats being dragged on to the rocks/beach in Papeete (where we were just anchored before coming to Moorea). One actually smashed in to an over-the-water bungalow at the Inter-Continental Hotel. Another boat in the Tuomotus got his propeller wrapped while dragging, sails slashed by the wind, and if not for assistance from another boat would have been up on the reef.
While all this was going on here in the Pacific, there was also Hurricane Jemini heading in the Sea of Cortez. This is where we spent seven fabulous months last year, and got to know a lot of the cruisers who spend each summer there. We were able to be in contact with them via Ham Radio email, and learned that nineteen boats were all hunkered down in the Hurricane Hole, all preparing for it. We’ve been following it all week, with our fingers crossed for everyone. The good news is that as of yesterday, it turned direction and doesn’t appear that it will reach them, although it did blast La Paz and surrounding areas. We haven’t heard from our land-based friends in that area to see if they were hit, so we are still on pins and needles awaiting the final word of what havoc Jemini has caused.
In this neck of the woods, the Pacific High is expected to last another 20 – 30 hours, with a day or two break, then followed once again by another high-pressure system, so our itinerary for the next week is flexible and dependent on the wind. This weather activity has reminded us, that while cruising is for the most part benign and safe, it does come with unexpected twists and turns and that’s what makes it such a grand adventure.
On a totally different note, we were pleased to hear about Luongo – the Canucks goalie, although it is a bit of a funny story how we found out. I was on Facebook and my niece Courtney put in her status line that she was glad that Luongo had resigned just moments before. I wasn’t sure why she was happy that our star goalie quit, but I told Peter right away, who was buried deep in the lazerette organizing things. He jumped right out, and got on NHL.com and actually discovered that he had re-signed! Same spelling – totally different meaning.
We are very grateful to be out here and happy to be growing older together, especially when we get to act like kids without a responsibility in the world. I’m also looking forward to getting back to B.C. and going out to dinner to White Spot where Peter will be a cheap date since he now qualifies for the senior discount! I’m married to a geezer!
Until next Friday….”a reed before the wind lives on while the mighty oaks fall”
Glad Kylie’s luggage finally arrived – Hope my niece Nadine enjoyed her 25th birthday and Peter’s sister Caroline enjoyed hers – it was great talking to you – Tahiti to Texas on a computer – how very cool is that!!!!
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